Everything You Need to Know Before Joining a Rock Climbing Gym

If you ever want to see a guy with jaw-droppingly shredded forearms, you can go one of two places: a jar-opening competition, or a rock climbing gym. Option two yields fewer dill pickles, perhaps, but more nice people whose preferred exercise method develops mind-bending core strength and balance. It’s easy to see why the sport has become so popular in recent years: It combines a rigorous workout with the opportunity to feel like you’re starring in own personal National Geographic photo shoot, if only for a moment.

Getting involved is not as simple as throwing on a harness and scurrying up the wall like you did that one time back at summer camp, though. Should you feel interested in giving it a try, we asked experts to share the important things that novices need to know before their first belay.

1. Familiarize yourself with the lingo

As with any sport, there’s a whole new set of terms and phrases that you’ll need to learn if you want to chalk up with the best of them. (Speaking of which: “Chalk up” refers to putting chalk on your hands to aid your grip). Prepare to hear a lot about bouldering, which refers to climbing a boulder sans harness, and belaying, which is using a rope to “spot” a partner and catch them if they fall—the ultimate show of trust.

In order to touch any wall at most climbing gyms, you’ll have to take a belay certification course for everyone’s safety. It’s quick, though, and you’ll have most of this lingo down by the end of it.


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2. Don't get hung up on grades

Just like in high school math class, there’s more to tackling a rock wall than the grade—or difficulty—of what you’re looking at. Optimists may want to jump into the hard-hitting stuff, but it’s smart to get your bearings first on something a bit easier. The American system of climbing grades is based off the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), which begins with class 1 (hiking) to class 5 (uber-technical rock climbing). Class 5 is divided again into difficulties that range from 5.0 to 5.15.

Trying to climb tougher grades should be a part of your efforts to improve, but focusing only on the numbers can ruin the fun for you and your belaying best friends. “Remember that grades are subjective and that they are there to benchmark your progress,” says Margo Hayes, a North Face-sponsored pro and the first woman to climb a 5.15-rated route. “You’ve got to celebrate the small victories along the way.”

3. You’re going to need the right gear

Aside from the harness, the most important piece of climbing equipment is good shoes. Just like your go-to running sneaker, there are different designs for different levels and foot types. “Climbing shoes are rubber and leather creations,” says climbing pro Sasha DiGiulian, with whom we spoke at the GoPro Mountain Games in conjunction with GMC. “Expert shoes are aggressive, downturned, and fit very small and snug to your foot. These people are really aiming to increase the sensitivity of their feet, kind of like skaters who wear smaller skates, or ballerinas en pointe.”

“When you’re shopping, give yourself a solid hour of just trying on shoes,” says Eli Strauss, Director of Instruction for The Cliffs Climbing and Fitness in New York City. “Some shoes stretch out as you break them in, some don't. They're supposed to be a lot tighter than a sneaker, but as a new guy in the gym, if it’s so tight that you don't want climb, you just… won't climb.”

4. Leave your ego on the ground

Rock climbing can be a humbling experience, whether you’re a beginner or an expert. “I think guys are blown away when they’re crushed at the wall by an adolescent girl,” says DiGiulian. “You can’t get caught up with what the people around you are doing. Just focus on your own climb.”

Some days are bound to be better than others. That’s okay, says North Face athlete Matty Hong. “Maybe you're having an off day, or all your friends can do a move that you can't. It's important to not let it get you down. Try to use it as motivation. Remember—the best climbers are falling all the time.” The sooner you accept that to be true, the sooner you’ll make real, measurable progress.

5. Don’t be a purist

Even at indoor facilities, bouldering and climbing on a rope are very different exercises. “Doing both is awesome, not only to give you a better idea of what styles of climbing you like, but also because they are complimentary,” says Strauss. “One will give you lots of power and strength, and the other will be where your endurance and stamina come from. Both are necessary to be a well-rounded climber. “

6. Go outdoors—when you’re ready

If you have aspirations of being an outdoor climber, it’s a good idea to practice techniques in a safe environment before hitting real rock. “Most climbers find that it’s a completely different challenge outside—it's scary, and it’s hard to find the hand and feet positions without colored holds or tape, and natural elements can make access tricky,” says Hong. “Don't be discouraged if you aren't climbing at the same level you were in the gym.”

7. Make friends

Climbing is a social activity, and unless you’re using an auto-belay—a contraption that will keep you safe if you’re climbing solo—you’ll need a partner to get the most out of your time in the gym. (Don’t use an auto-belay. You could use more friends.)

Having a trusted buddy on belay is especially useful when you need advice about which handhold to reach for next. If you can’t figure it out together, that’s a great excuse to discuss alternative strategies over beers afterwards. Besides, cold beverages do wonders when held against sore, worn-out forearms. It's science.