Koryo-Saram cuisine spotlights distinct Korean-Russian community
Food can be a window to family history, but in the case of Chef Elena Yugai, it tells the history of her people.
Yugai is fourth-generation Koryo-Saram — the name used to describe Russia's nearly 500,000-strong Korean population.
"It is a small ethnic group in Russia who are originally from Korea but over a few generations became a blend of Korean, Russian and Central Asian cultures," she explained.
The first Korean migration started at the end of the 19th century, she said, with Korean farmers moving to Russia in search of land.
After Japan annexed Korea in the early 20th century, Yugai said there was massive political emigration. Her great-grandparents were part of that political emigration.
Distinctly Korean
The Russian city of Vladivostok became an important cultural centre for Koreans abroad, until the Soviets came to power and the Iron Curtain reduced communication and movement to the outside world.
"The Koreans that were there — about half a million — became isolated from the rest of the world. That's why our cuisine is so unique," Yugai said.
"The cuisine adopted local ingredients and local techniques and now it's this unique blend of a little bit of everything but distinctly Korean and still unlike anything else."
Listen to Chef Elena Yugai talk about Korya-Saram history with CBC's Margaret Gallagher:
Yugai, who learned how to cook from her grandmother and mother, said food is central to her culture.
"We travel. We migrate. We adopt little bits and pieces from everywhere we live, and Vancouver is the perfect city to showcase that."
Yugai shares her cuisine at the UBC Farm's Joy of Feeding culinary event on June 24, 2017 from 5 to 8 p.m. PT. The event features dishes from 13 countries.
Morkov Cha
One of the most recognized Russian Korean culinary contributions is Morkov Cha, a type of of carrot salad. Yugai says you can find it in virtually every supermarket, bazaar or market across Eurasia.
Ingredients (10-15 Servings)
1 kg (2.5 lbs) carrots (choose extra large carrots for easier slicing)
3 tsp salt
2 tbsp sugar
5+ cloves of minced garlic
2 tbsp hot red pepper flakes
2 medium white onions
1 tbsp 70 per cent white vinegar OR 10 tbsp of 5 per cent vinegar
1/3 cup vegetable oil
Cilantro (optional)
1 tbsp sesame seeds (optional)
To prepare
- Julienne carrots on a mandolin slicer in thin long strips. It looks best when it resembles orange spaghetti.
- Sprinkle generously with salt and set aside for 10 – 20 minutes.
- Gently squeeze the water out of julienned carrots. Add sugar and vinegar. Yugai says she buys 70 per cent white vinegar in Russian stores just for Koryo Saram salads, but you can use larger quantities of regular 5 per cent vinegar typically sold in North American supermarkets.
- Dice the onions.
- Heat vegetable oil on medium high heat. Add the onions and sauté until they are golden in colour. Add hot red pepper flakes, stir once and remove from heat. Pour this seasoned hot oil over carrots. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, chopped cilantro and finely minced garlic. Mix well.
- Adjust seasonings: vinegar for sour taste, sugar for sweetness. You should just under-season, because flavours will bloom after a few hours marinating in the fridge.
- Let the carrot salad marinate in the fridge for at least an hour before serving. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.
With files from Margaret Gallagher
