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Paris’ Most Wanted: Chemena Kamali’s Chloé Girl

PARIS — This season was all about Chloé and coats, coats, coats for the buyers emerging from the frenzy of Paris Fashion Week.

Everyone wants to be — or buy — the Chloé girl. Chemena Kamali’s debut at the house was clearly the fashion week winner, with a steady stream of buyers praising her first collection at the house as one of their favorite shows, or citing her as a best new talent.

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The show was electric, according to those who attended.

“We could feel the excitement in the room. The industry is very clearly energized for this next chapter of the brand,” said Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus.

Moda Operandi chief merchant April Hennig said the Chloé show was “the talk of the town” all week, while Ounass head of buying Jessica Crawley said the debut “exceeded expectations.”

“The collection exuded power, femininity and a carefree cool-girl vibe, with an emphasis on impeccable craftsmanship,” she said.

The usual suspects also made many buyers’ lists: Loewe for elevating fashion to art, The Row for its singular vision of luxury, and Dries Van Noten. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli and Chitose Abe’s Sacai were given a few nods, as well as Louise Trotter’s second turn at Carven and Nicolas Di Felice’s intellectually sexy beating heart of a Courrèges collection.

The focus was on outerwear for buyers, who are looking to snap up coats in all forms, from faux fur to long and lean to versatile trenches.

Fluffy and knit accessories will be a big trend for the season, while traditional fall colors made a comeback with shades of olive green, bold burgundy and oxblood pretty much everywhere. Leopard is the print of the season.

“Coats are the outfit,” summed up Printemps buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear Maud Pupato.

This season buyers detected a shift from the aggressive understatement of “quiet luxury” to a more sophisticated, elevated and polished aesthetic.

“Quiet luxury is undergoing a transformation toward something more refined and elevated. This luxury trend is now more conspicuous,” said Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories at Samaritaine Paris.

“A more elevated, grown-up take on the ‘mob wife’ aesthetic, including lingerie dressing, faux fur, sheer fabrications, lace hosiery, and corsetry,” said Net-a-porter market director Libby Page. She christened it “gilded glamour.”

But “gilded glamour” could lose some of its shine when it comes to the economy. Buyers mostly reported budgets being either flat or didn’t divulge, and said collections are feeling more cautious against the backdrop of global uncertainties.

The buzz throughout the week was that Paris had, well, buzz. “Paris was more energized than the other fashion weeks this season,” said Pupato, adding that Milan was “monotonous.”

While some buyers cited mini-trends fueled by social media, many welcomed the movement away from the small-screens in our pockets. Balenciaga, Rick Owens and The Row were all repeatedly praised for their scaled-back formats, messaging and, in the case of The Row, no-phone policy. The quiet moment with just a notebook allowed buyers to appreciate the clothes and not their notifications.

“It is not about celebrity dressing or how many live streaming followers — it is singularly about the energy and effort to make the best collection,” said Lane Crawford and Joyce president Blondie Tsang.

Here, a selection of buyers share their insights into the trends:

Beth Buccini, owner and founder at Kirna Zabête

Favorite collections: Chloé, Loewe, The Row and Sacai.

Best show format: The Row, with no photos and old-school notebooks and pencils, reminded us to be in the moment and focus just on the clothes, not on the content. Even in the showroom we couldn’t take photos, but they provided great ones along with 360-degree video views. We could just really enjoy the quality of the fabrics and all the special details. It was very zen and absolutely gorgeous.

Chemena Kamali’s debut at Chloé was such a highlight. The energy of this collection and the return to Chloé’s feminine, boho roots felt so fresh and full of desire. We also loved Johanna Ortiz’s presentation in a stunningly beautiful former monastery. It was an amazing backdrop for the clothes and a fun event.

Top trends: Statement voluminous outerwear; oxblood and pale minty green; great textures in knitwear — brushed cashmeres, fleeces and chunky knits; more formality and transparency.

Investment pieces: Loewe large flamenco purse in oxblood; The Row shearling boot and its new Margaux [bag], named the India; Chloé silk chiffon ruffles, and shearling coat from Miu Miu.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are up, as we have opened new doors and are buying for Miami now.

New talent: Metier handbags.

Impressions of the week: Ah Paris! The most magical stop on our fashion train, in a season we’ve been buying for since December. And it didn’t disappoint. We saw so much freshness and great ideas, and plenty of reasons for women to need to buy new clothes. Quiet luxury is fading, and a new formality is emerging.

Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying at Ssense

Favorite collections: Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, The Row, Chloé, Rabanne, Undercover, Miu Miu, Dries Van Noten and, of course, Rick Owens.

Best show format: Balenciaga set the tone with a truly immersive experience featuring massive screens that took us on a journey through nature, cityscapes and social media, nodding at the broader implications of “too much screen time” today. And on a more personal level, Rick Owens. His show was a full circle moment for me. Coming back to Palais Bourbon had me feeling nostalgic for the days when we used to do our buys from his home where they housed his original showroom, 19 years ago.

Top trends: The first resounding theme is the idea of “protection of the body” either through lots of layering, or extreme bonding and structures that are designed to protect the inner self. There was also a ton of texture — think shaggy, faux fur everywhere — and lots of brown and black, despite the color of the season being, without a doubt, bottle green. Embellishments also made their way back onto runways through Stella McCartney and Miu Miu. We’re also loving all of the bow detailing we’re seeing across all of the brands this season including Comme des Garçons. As for my final takeaway: gloves will be the accessory of the season. Gloves of all lengths and textures from leather to knit and faux fur.

Investment pieces: Cashmere wrap coat from The Row, embellished suede jacket from Miu Miu, cape coat from Chloé.

New talent: We’ve had a great first season with Marie Adam-Leenaerdt. The brand is off to a great start already, and we’re really loving all of the colors and skirts we’re seeing for fall. We’re also very excited to work with Alainpaul this season…we absolutely loved his take on ballerina leotard pieces and a tailoring-inspired scarf.

Impressions of the week: This was the season for designers going back to their roots, or focusing on what they’re known to do best.

The Row
The Row

Jessica Crawley, head of buying at Ounass (Al Tayer Group)

Favorite collections: Chloé, Loewe, Schiaparelli, Valentino, Zimmermann and Casablanca.

Best show format: Balenciaga. The entire venue was transformed into a dynamic canvas with AI-generated images that were continuously changing, adding another dimension to the show.

Top trends: Earth tones dominated the runways ranging from soft nudes to deep browns and olive greens. However, it was burgundy that stole the spotlight, appearing throughout PFW from Zimmermann, Chloé and Saint Laurent, among others. Sheer fabrics, a continuation from spring/summer 2024, were a clear favorite among designers, with transparent lace making a statement update this season as seen from Chloé, Valentino and Zimmermann. A sharp contrast to the transparency trend was leather, appearing prominently in nearly every collection, with a notable emphasis on burgundy leather and leather bombers, which we saw from Balenciaga, Loewe, Zimmermann, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Rabanne. Trenchcoats made an appearance alongside oversized volumes, checks, deep V necklines and shirtless blazers, giving a sense of sleekness and sophistication. Micro-trends also emerged, including fringes featured in Chloé, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Zimmermann, and Victoria Beckham, as well as subtle touches of velvet adding a luxe feel to the overall aesthetic of collections.

Investment piece: Leather bomber from Loewe.

Budgets up or down: Sales are strong, we are continuing to push budgets.

Impressions of the week: Paris felt quieter and slightly more subdued compared to the past few seasons, but overall, the vibe was positive. Collections were strong, elevated and there was plenty of excitement and newness.

Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at Le Bon Marché

Favorite collections: Rabanne, Dior, Zimmermann, Sacai, Chanel.

Best show format: The Stella McCartney show was in a modern transparent glass architecture that allowed one to feel outside, with a view on the sunny blue sky, which linked to her urgent message about Earth.

Top trends: Tailoring, denim, leather jackets, arm architecture, silver metallics, lingerie details, embellishment/crystal details, eveningwear and capes.

Investment piece: Trenches, oversized jackets, denim total looks, evening dresses and silver metallic items.

New talent: The Japanese line CFCL, which showed for the first time on the Parisian calendar, is a great talent, with amazing work on knits, shapes, volume and feminine [details] — with a B-Corp approach.

Impressions of the week: There was great energy and creativity, with a good balance between recognized designers and emerging ones.

Sacai Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Sacai

Giuseppe D’Amato, buying and merchandising director at Rinascente 

Favorite collections: Chloé, Chanel, YSL, Dior and Courrèges.

Best show format: Acne Studio’s concept with sculptures by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo in materials made of recycled tires. Balenciaga’s screen box.

Top trends: See-through materials for dresses or tops; over-the-knee boots; long coats and trenches; fake fur coat and bags; maxi bags; knitwear expanded into dresses, tops and bottoms, and checks as a pattern.

Investment piece: For sure knitwear in a large variety and colors, long coats and boots. A nice highlight was fake fur, also on handbags.

Budgets up or down: Stable.

New talent: New designer debuts have been well done at Chloé, Alexander McQueen and Rochas. We will follow Duran Lantink more.

Impressions of the week: There is a strong presence of novelties and focus on ready-to-wear and shoes — mostly on boots, a strong and more sensual aesthetic. I would have expected more on handbags in terms of novelties; the brands have presented interesting commercial variations of existing and iconic shapes.

Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories at Samaritaine Paris

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Courrèges, Chloé, Carven, Acne Studios

Best show format: Courrèges’ breathing floor, bright white set and breathing rhythm served as a representation of tranquility and calm. This perfectly complemented the sensitivity of the collection, creating a seamless connection between the two.

Marine Serre at Ground Control staged a market setting featuring models carrying grocery bags, pizza boxes, coffee cups and flowers, transported you into an everyday scene, as if you were observing a typical afternoon in Paris.

Top trends:  There’s a heightened sense of chicness and sophistication this season. With the ongoing global uncertainties, fashion shows have taken a wearable and commercial approach, with a creative twist. Quiet luxury is undergoing a transformation toward something more refined and elevated. This luxury trend is now more conspicuous, marked by intricate details and multiple interpretations. The color palette is bold, featuring strong hues such as red, khaki, oxblood and brown. Leopard prints are not only more visible but also reinterpreted, injecting a fresh perspective. This season places a spotlight on coats, presenting a selection of oversized options, elongated trenches, and cocooning shapes. Trenchcoats with stand-up collars, reminiscent of those seen at Courrèges or Acne, add to the allure.

Investment piece: Outerwear was a standout category this season with versatile options. It featured supersized statement coats with wide rounded shoulders and cocooning shapes exemplified by Acne Studios, and fringe jackets from Isabel Marant introducing a unique element. No doubt that the chiffon dress paired with logo belt from the new Chloé collection designed by Chemena Kamali will be on the top of our “it” product list. Tights, whether embellished, printed, or in opaque colors, make a bold statement. And of course, flat, flat, flat!

Impressions of the week: There’s a noticeable shift back to sophistication, marking a departure from the understated luxury of the previous season. Brands like Rabanne, Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant, and Chloé showcased a resurgence of creative flair, emphasizing innovative styling twists, intricate layering, and thoughtfully curated accessories. The focus on intricate details has been a highlight this season, especially from a buyer’s perspective. I find myself repeatedly looking through my photos zooming in on them.

Miu Miu Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Miu Miu

Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Chloé, The Row, Undercover, Rabanne, Courrèges, Sacai, Miu Miu, Loewe.

Best show format:  From the clever eBay sourced gift that arrived with every Balenciaga show invite to the immersive set where walls, floor, and ceiling were lined in digital screens, the show was delivered with a burst of energy.  Rick Owens hosted his “Porterville” show inside his Parisian townhouse, a venue that offered an elevated sense of intimacy inside his Brutalist personal surroundings.

Top trends: We love this idea of taking up space with your outerwear — bold must-have silhouettes at Sacai and an exaggerated A-line at The Row. Luxurious oversize faux fur was everywhere.

Textured knitwear offered a sense of cozy and unexpected creativity on the runways — from Stella McCartney’s alpaca loop knits to McQueen’s exaggerated necklines to Sacai’s swinging knit jacket. Fall’s knits are anything but classic.

Strong shoulder tailoring at Stella McCartney, Balmain, Saint Laurent and McQueen. The confident look of this suiting silhouette is sure to resonate.

Big is in when it comes to handbags — slouchy totes at Balenciaga, Chloé’s exaggerated shoulder bags, Valentino’s sleek patent leather ladylike carryall, Undercover’s boat tote redux and the iconic Margaux closing out The Row show all offer a compelling reason to go big for fall.

Investment piece: Big voluminous coats are definitely worth splurging on come fall, particularly in faux fur, but also the new boot silhouette that’s tall and often doubles as a pant. Undercover’s bonded fabric jeans, Balenciaga’s sophisticated pocket tote, Chloé’s blouses and wooden clog, Miu Miu gloves, Chanel shearling coat, bag and boots.

Impressions of the week: After seasons anchored in understated wardrobing, we saw this Paris season as a turning point toward individuality and unexpected design. The week delivered a welcome break from restraint — Chemena Kamali’s feminine flair at Chloé hit a chord while Miu Miu and Dries Van Noten’s color combinations inspired.

Linda Fargo, director of women’s fashion at Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Schiaparelli, Loewe, Valentino, Chloé, Sacai, Miu Miu.

New talent: Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and Alainpaul [are both] quickly upping their game and elevating their collections.

Top trends: Outright femininity in evidence in more body close silhouettes, hourglass tailoring, veiling transparency, lingerie and lace elements, and more skirts than we’ve seen in a while. Pretty much every collection worked with interesting riffs on tailoring as a counterpoint to softness. Asymmetric and organic draping was du jour. Reconstituted and repurposed constructions were the building blocks of numerous collections, waist bands used as hems, belts used as collars, jacket halves as scarves. Convertible and multifunctional pieces shared in this upending trend. You couldn’t escape the importance of texture: shaggy robe coats, just out of the rain faux furs, shearling and more shearling, fuzzy-wuzzy accessories. Protective gestures and swaddling wraps, especially around the neck and shoulders, were prevalent. Capes and cocooning caban shapes similarly looked comforting and trend right.

Investment piece: Go for the new clean Bel Air handbag from Balenciaga — it’s classic yet cool.  As investments go where longevity is key, an exquisite black tailored jacket with the dimensional rose wrist detail from Valentino would be perfect.

April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Chloé, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent, Valentino.

Best show format: Technology played a key role in this week’s presentations. Balenciaga’s set of screens was an immersive digital sensation. Courrèges’ breathing floor, which moved with each inhale and exhale, added to the subtly provocative nature of the collection. And Coperni’s presentation made us think about otherworldly life. On another note, Miu Miu’s unexpected runway casting included real-life patrons of the brand, proving fashion can be for every age.

Top trends: Elevated daywear offerings were prevalent, with Dries Van Noten and Schiaparelli each standing out for mixing denim with more precious pieces — in unexpected ways. The week presented a tension between traditionally softer feminine materials and tougher masculine elements. Menswear fabrications like plaid, herringbone and tweed continued in Paris, as seen in layers at Rabanne or with crystal embroideries at Stella McCartney. Cozy comforts like shearling and faux fur counterbalanced the bare, slinky and feminine looks at Saint Laurent, Johanna Ortiz and Zimmermann — all proving an elevated execution can help avoid the viral “mob wives” trope. Touches of animal prints — from leopard to snakeskin — helped break up solid monochrome looks.

Investment piece: The growing scarcity of The Row’s Margaux bags was a hot topic this week, proving that demand will continue to far surpass supply. Balenciaga’s Bel Air, shown in a normalized size at the re-see, is a strong contender for next season’s “It” bag. Plus, the sky-high clogs at Chloé, knee-high boots at Dries, and plenty of belts and options for big bold jewelry.

Budgets up or down: We are optimistic for future business opportunity.

New talent: We are thrilled to launch a digital trunk show showcasing several semifinalists for the LVMH Prize. Marie Adam-Leenaerdt made an impression with her pattern-making ingenuity, while Vautrait, Ya Yi Studio, Elena Velez, Niccolò Pasqualetti, and Standing Ground each stood out with their unique perspectives.

Schiaparelli Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Schiaparelli

Jodi Kahn, vice president luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus 

Favorite collections: Chloé, Schiaparelli, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Miu Miu.

Best show format: Many brands impressed us with the thought-provoking venues they selected such as Loewe’s art gallery and Hermès’ indoor rainstorm. Immersive experiences like the Roger Vivier presentation and clever invites, including Balenciaga’s eBay treasure, also stood out.

Top trends: Sheer lightness and femininity stood out, most loved in cascading ruffles at Chloé and in fluid draped dresses at Akris and Chanel. Fuzzy and fluffy fantasy added the perfect texture for fall, mastered at Dries in both ready-to-wear and accessories. Leopard was the animal print du jour, spotted at Balenciaga, Rabanne and Alexander McQueen. The super tall boot is back, best seen at Chanel and Chloé. Different materials and heel heights, including the platform as seen at Chanel and Gucci [in Milan].

Investment piece: A Schiaparelli coat, whether it be the shearling with skeleton detail, the puffer with six-pack abs or the peacoat with mismatched gold trinket buttons, they are all quintessential Schiaparelli. Each piece of outerwear felt like an exclamation point to the brilliant collection.

New talent: Designer debuts have been the driving energy at fashion week the last few seasons and this was no different. Chemena Kamali’s proposition for the Chloé girl was clear and compelling, and Seán McGirr, with far less time at the house, is determined to bring an updated approach to McQueen. We look forward to seeing how both designers blossom at their respective houses.

Impressions of the week: After seasons of pragmatism and a focus on more pared-back fashion, Paris solidified a joyful return to color, texture, glamour and expressive fashion. We see this fantasy work in tandem effectively with the overwhelming focus on wearability in other markets. It was an inspiring week for the fashion community to gather together. One of my favorite moments was when we hosted the Neiman Marcus Awards in celebration of our 2024 recipients, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Daniel Roseberry and Simon Porte Jacquemus.

Elizabeth & Dominick Lepore, owners at Jimmy’s New York and the Hamptons

Favorite collections: Stephane Rolland, Victoria Beckham, Lanvin.

Best show format: Allowing the clothes to speak versus the extravagant productions of seasons past, we enjoyed scaled-back presentations and spending our time with designers in the showrooms, truly being able to touch and feel the collections.

Top trends: Masculine feminine fluidity of billowy trousers in suiting, an abundance of black clothing in every technique and fabric — lace, sheer transparency, bohemian ruffles in chiffon and leather both by day and night allowing the craftsmanship and detail to shine through.

Investment piece: Saddle up your inner elevated cowboy and take part in the Wild Wild West and invest in cowboy boots and fringe. The weightless romance of a sheer blouse will be a strong top for fall along with the corset worn with oversized jackets and shearlings for outerwear or the new design of a trenchcoat.

Impressions of the week: The couture aesthetic and introduction of Stephane Rolland’s first ready-to-wear collection, Le Soir, along with the influence of Jeanne Lanvin on the house this season got us anxiously awaiting the fall season. Our favorite colors of black and white carried through the sportswear of day to the gowns of night giving us full confidence the Jimmy’s audience will be ecstatic for fall arrivals in store.

Loewe
Loewe

Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods

Favorite collections: The Row, Schiaparelli, Loewe, Miu Miu.

Best show format: The Row’s exclusive and private salon show, which was designed to be an intimate experience for all attendees. The ban on capturing the event and the presence of a sketchbook and pencil created a unique and immersive ambience, allowing the attendees to fully appreciate the beauty of the collection.

Top trends: There is a growing trend toward sheer fabrics, and a rise in cape, scarf, and wrap detailing in looks. Tailoring indisputably dominated, with the collections boasting sharp cuts and clean lines. Another notable trend was extreme proportions. From ultra-tight micro and body-con outfits to voluminous silhouettes and maxi lengths. We have also noticed some beautiful back detailing, ranging from open and exposed to cocooned outerwear styles. Monotone dressing is becoming increasingly popular.

Investment piece: My advice is for our customers to carefully examine the trends that truly resonate with them individually, the ones that complement their unique style and personality. By doing so, they can find pieces to treasure not just now but for many years to come.

Impression of the week: This season featured some spectacular collections that demonstrated the skill and artistry of the designers and artisans of the maisons.

Janelle Lloyd, fashion director of ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Chloé, Saint Laurent, Balmain, Stella McCartney, Chanel.

Best show format: The immersive experience at Balenciaga and powerful set design teamed with armored sculptures and images of female warriors at Dior.

Top trends: A sea of seductive sheer at Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Chloé cemented translucency as a major trend for fall. Power shoulders, statement [faux] fur, and trench coats reigned, while a gamut of green shades walked the runways at shows like Hermès, Balmain and Isabel Marant. A continuation from NYFW, it seemed as though every label got the memo to create a single look in a head-to-toe red hue. A fire engine frock at Balmain and a body-hugging Bordeaux moment at Saint Laurent topped the list.

Investment piece: A floor-grazing maxi coat.

New talent: Chemena Kamali’s debut at Chloé embodied the brand history and 1970s spirit we’ve been waiting for. Equal parts sexy and comfortable, these are just the sort of feminine pieces I long to wear.

Impressions of the week: As a new member of the Bloomingdale’s team, this was my first Paris Fashion Week and it did not disappoint. From the collections themselves to the beautifully adorned spaces they were often shown in, I found myself romanticizing every moment. With such a diversity of talent on the Paris lineup, there’s something for every showgoer to fall in love with here.

Alix Morabito, womenswear, lingerie, kids and global special project director at Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collection: Dries Van Noten, Carven, Miu Miu, Chanel, Chloé.

Best show format: Balenciaga’s immersive set with its giant screens transported us through parallel realities which showcased Demna’s appetite for concepts without [overshadowing] the collection, which enabled us to appreciate his singular approach to clothes. Marine Serre’s laid-back market-like set and the energy of the models — smiling and having fun — managed to create a beautiful tribute to the brand that is now completely set up.

Top trends: This season it’s all about singularity, as each brand offered a very DNA proposition. It is now less about a trend and rather about personal creativity, while maintaining a very chic attitude. [However], animal and check prints were very strong this season as well as hairy/shaggy accessories. We also saw a lot of embellishments either through embroideries or statement jewelry. And finally, there is quite a strong comeback of dresses.

Investment piece: For the winter season, the key outerwear pieces will be the trench or the shaggy coats to cover all the sheerness we saw on the runway. For shoes it is the pump or thigh-high boots.

New talent: We had spotted Marie Adam-Leenaerdt a few seasons back, but this season she really took her collection a step forward. Each piece was “coup de coeur.” Alainpaul’s DNA is very clear, and we truly feel the roots of his dancing background, as well as the rigor and precision he put into the collection and the show. Duran Lantink’s conceptual approach is also very strong and now definitely recognizable.

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear at Selfridges

Favorite collections: Sacai, Chloé, Comme des Garçons.

Best show format: The Balenciaga show was a technological tour de force: The all-encompassing LED screens were akin to Star Trek holodeck (or as close as imaginably possible) transporting all guests to different locations, not least some that were AI generated. A vision of the future it was indeed, accompanying a collection that was authentic and pure to Demna’s design vision.

The Undercover show was inspired by Wim Wenders’ new movie “Perfect Days,” with the Oscar-nominated movie providing the backdrop to the collection. The show had no music. Instead, Wim Wenders added a completely new piece of text for this Undercover show and it was read by Mr. Wenders himself.

Top trends: Sheer dressing was very visible in most collections, including Saint Laurent, Dior, Coperni, and Schiaparelli to name a few. Chunky knits as seen in Sacai will be a key trend for us at Selfridges this season. Layering, especially in Rabanne and Miu Miu, was a key theme that resulted in new and very interested combinations color and shapes.

Investment piece: A The Row coat from the secret beautiful collection is the must-have investment piece, as well as the already iconic asparagus bag designer by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe.

New talent: Vaquera on day one of fashion week is a brand we have been buying for a while and it’s great to see that the brand is getting more and more attention from all sides. This season’s show was a particular highlight.

Impressions of the week: The weather and the rain were not easy this time, only one day of fashion week being rain-free. From a fashion point of view, it was good to observe a focus on wearability and commerciality, excited to see how this will evolve into SS25.

Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter

Favorite collections: Chloé, Carven.

Best show format: Each season Loewe take us to the same location but the transformation of the space this season was exceptional. Inspired by the works of David York, it was a fantastic example of how fashion and art coincide.

Top trends: We saw designers such as Saint Laurent and Valentino embrace “Gilded Glamour” — a more elevated, grown-up take on the “mob wife” aesthetic, including lingerie dressing, faux fur, sheer fabrications, lace hosiery, and corsetry. A beautiful color palette of oxblood, mustard and green graced the collections across all categories.

Investment piece: Loewe’s new Flamenco bag with the chain, it comes in a new jumbo size retailing at 3,300 euros — we loved this in all colors.

New talent: New designer to Net-a-porter and LVMH Prize [semifinalist], Marie Adam-Leenaerdt’s collection development and her take on wardrobe classics with a twist really stood out.

Impressions of the week: There is a noticeable return to femininity this season, clothes are closer to the body and there is an elegance to the collections through the necklines, fabrics, and accessories which we know will resonate with our [Extremely Important People].

Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps

Favorite collections: Courrèges, The Row, Chloé, Dries Van Noten. Honorable mention to Victoria Beckham.

Best show format: The Row’s intimate venue and limited seats, notebook gifts and no phone allowed is the ultimate luxury experience. Loewe’s art gallery was the most intellectual mixing art and fashion where each look felt like artwork. Mugler’s show definitely stood out for its vibrant energy. The entire runway felt like a performance, with models walking in the darkness with spotlights and curtains falling around, drones flying across the room, and the crowd on fire behind the stage.

Top trends: The comeback of bohemian chic is very clear this season. Chloé might be the master of the trend, but Isabel Marant’s punchy interpretation of it is for sure making us want more and more (especially those fringe jackets).

The bourgeoise trend continues to thrive through different approaches: artistic at Loewe, intellectual at The Row, elegant and feminine at Carven, belted looks at Chanel. Long skirts were in almost every show, a trench is a must, and in terms of shoes, high boots and pumps are the rhythm of the catwalks. There is a clear opposition between “lady” and “mannish/boyish” trends. [Faux] furs are on every runway but large shoulder tailoring, too. Preppy is emerging, as seen at Rabanne, Miu Miu and Loewe.

Investment piece: Carrying over from Milan, coats are the outfit: A long fur for sure, from Coperni, Miu Miu or Dries Van Noten. A trench or a cape coat from Chloé. A leather jacket, sophisticated from Loewe or bohemian at Isabel Marant.

Something with a hood, preferably from Courrèges. A good suit from Gauchere, The Row or Carven. A transparent top, poetic from Dries Van Noten, grunge from Acne, geometric from Courrèges. A touch of olive green like the gloves at Carven. Sunglasses with every look, Acne Studios’ one being the stronger.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are flat with the opportunity for new brand additions.

New talent: Hodakova. The Swedish LVMH Prize semifinalist uses the existing garments in order to create her own fashion vision. Vautrait founded by Yonathan Carmel, who dedicated its brand to embrace the body and his evolution. Rowen Rose, founded by Emma Rowen Rose, transports us in her world.

Impressions of the week: Paris was more energized than the other fashion weeks this season. Each brand is proposing different silhouettes, while it was more monotonous in Milan. I felt that the creativity was truly enhanced through collections designed to be unique. New emerging trends are making us completely move forward from athleisure and ‘90s (except for denim, still present on the runway). Paris stays glamorous as always, and this time femininity is embraced in different ways, encouraging a woman to play with all her personas.

Dries Van Noten Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Dries Van Noten

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks

Favorite collections: Chloé, Loewe, Valentino, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, The Row.

Best show format: Balenciaga. Demna’s AI-generated format was off the hook. The high-tech experience with changing landscapes of serene mountains to café-lined Paris sidewalks to the social media frenzy, created the perfect backdrop for Demna’s everyday dressing.

Top trends: Reinvented classics continued in Paris, [with designers] elevating everyday essentials including blazers, shirting, trousers, and outerwear with a spin. Some of the silhouettes were twisted or inverted with cutout shoulders and open backs.

Trenchcoats were the hero piece of PFW, from the logo Miss Dior trench to the cutout trench at Balenciaga, and the Balmain military-influenced trench with seashell hardware. Outerwear continues to be the item of the fall season with topcoats, pea coats, toggle coats, capes, shearling, and oversized knit coats. Textured handcrafted knits that doubled as coats are directional.

It was refreshing to see more color in Paris. Red and bordeaux continued against a sea of neutrals, but soft pastels emerged as well and added some light to the grays, black, browns and olive greens. Textured fabrics and knits feel luxe, especially in the oversized coats. Sheer fabrications continued, as well as lace, and treated and washed denim.

It’s also a boot season, highlighting high-shaft boots, riding boots, wedge boots, round-toe boots and over-the-knee boots. Top-handle bags [ranged] from mini to mid to oversized totes.

Investment piece: Between one of Chloé’s lace pieces, chiffon dresses and statement belts, Loewe’s reinvented classics (the shirt, the vest and the oversized cargo pants), one of this season’s trenchcoats, and one of Valentino’s Noir looks, there were many this season.

Impression of the week: Paris Fashion Week in the rain could not stop all the beauty, creativity and energy that was taking place. With all the talk about the fall collections being so commercial, there was fantastic fashion to delight the senses. This season is more about individuality, with each house tapping into their DNA and codes to harness their brand power and image to give their customers exactly what they are looking for in these times.

Katie Rowland, womenswear buying director at Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Chloé, Loewe, Dries Van Noten

Best show format: Balenciaga: The immersive experience provided a full floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall AI journey through landscapes, cities and thoughts. Mugler: Known for its spectacular presentations and high-octane energy. Stella McCartney: Delivered an essential environmental message with the theme “It’s about time.”

Top trends: Black: Dominated the runway, notably championed by the all-black Valentino collection. Sheer: Featured across multiple shows, including a focus at Saint Laurent. Burgundy. Statement coats: Maxi-length, embellished, with strong silhouettes. Faux fur. Other micro-trends: Pinstripes, midi-skirts, leopard print, chunky and oversized knitwear, corduroy detailing, lace.

Investment pieces: Loewe suede or burgundy bomber. Chloé ruffles.

Budgets up or down: Planning for sales growth and strategic investments in areas of strong belief.

New talent: Anticipating the emergence of new talents, particularly interested in LVMH [semifinalists] like Elena Velez.

Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: The Row, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Miu Miu.

Best show format: Rick Owens showcased a salon-style presentation in his home at Place du Palais Bourbon. The more intimate and understated backdrop allowed the true beauty of the collection to stand out. The celebration of joy and self-expression showcased in the parade of models at the Balmain finale was an incredible demonstration of inclusivity and reality on the runway.

Top trends: There was an emphasis on adorning the everyday this season in Paris. We are thrilled to see statement outerwear stand out as a key trend. From the super shaggy shearlings from Rick Owens, Acne Studios, and Alexander McQueen to the remix of the classic trench from Sacai, Balenciaga, and Chloé — we are excited by how much variety was shown in the collections. We continue to see an emphasis on the exaggeration of proportions with enveloping overcoats and oversized trousers seen best from Balmain, Loewe and Givenchy. Overall textural fabrications in the autumnal color palette of merlot, khaki green and navy proved to remain a constant through all the brands we saw in Paris.

Investment piece: This season is all about investment outerwear. Whether its a shaggy shearling from The Row or a trench hybrid from Sacai, we are all going to need more room in our closets for the amazing offer of coats this season.

New talent: With the debut collections under new design directors at Chloé and Alexander McQueen, along with the announcement of the LVMH Prize semifinalists, Paris was bursting at the seams with new talent to discover.

Impressions of the week: We come to Paris to discover innovative designs and thoughtful brand storytelling. What resonated throughout the week was the power of staying true to your brand voice and aesthetic. The narrative a designer can portray through their collections is what we hope to achieve through our curated assortment in store. While exploring the everyday wardrobe seemed to be a point of reference for many of the designers here in Paris, the choices our clients have this season will ignite a more opulent attitude — which we could not be more excited about.

Balenciaga Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Paris Fashion Week
Balenciaga

Blondie Tsang, president at Lane Crawford and Joyce

Favorite collections: The Row, Loewe.

Best show format: Balenciaga. The digital animation from floor to ceiling, amazing imagery throughout the show, everyone was blown away by this immersive experience. It was almost too good that we forgot about the clothes — almost!

Top trends: Still minimal, clean soft tailoring. Styles are more elongated than before with oversized proportions — a relaxed chic look. Starting to see kitten heel pumps slowly coming back.

Investment pieces: A great trenchcoat; a lightweight tonal suit, slightly oversize; long skirt to the floor; long coat to go with the long skirt.

Budgets up or down: Budget varies from brand to brand, all subject to the strength of the collection. Investment is going to both luxe brands and affordable luxe wardrobing lifestyle brands — timeless and quality pieces to add to the wardrobe.

New talent: Alainpaul. Great tailoring skills with edgy design and great quality fabric. We’ve picked him up exclusively for Joyce in Hong Kong.

Impressions of the week: It feels more a continuation of the previous season — a lot of soft tailoring, not so sporty. At the same time, the business view overall is conservative. Special items and investment pieces are still important, so very selective overall. Best of best from our vendor partners, tight curation but with confidence.

Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matches

Favorite collections: Loewe, Chloé, Courrèges, Dries Van Noten, Issey Miyake, Miu Miu.

Best show format: Margiela’s couture show earlier this year was spectacular; in Paris we were invited to a small exhibition space to view the collection up close. It was inspiring to see; the show will change so much in the fashion landscape. Rick Owens at his home with Michele Lamy and Loewe’s set adorned with pieces of art by American artist Albert York, who inspired the collection.

Top trends: A continuation of what we have seen throughout the shows this season — there is less of a focus on pure wardrobing and instead we are seeing strong conversation and emotional pieces. Embellishment, but not in the traditional form. Designers are playing with rich textures and layering to create a point of interest. Across accessories, slouchy, medium-sized bags styled under the arm will be the key trend for the season.

Investment piece: A dress coat from Dries Van Noten or Loewe.

New talent: LVMH Prize nominee Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is a real visionary. Her collection is very balanced but with a clear design DNA and point of difference.

Impressions of the week: There is so much newness coming through with designers really celebrating creativity this season. Valentino’s all-black collection “Le Noir” was bold and stood out amidst a colorful Paris Fashion Week.

Will Zhang, founder and buying director at SND

Favorite collection: Dries Van Noten

Best show format: Mugler’s atmosphere was fully charged, creating an unprecedented show stage with concepts of music, lighting, and shadows. Different shadows reflected the diversity of people in various situations, presenting a myriad of transformations, mysterious, romantic and sensual, believed to be a visual feast for every attendee.

Top trends: Specialized tailoring, uniqueness and transcendence (not the usual mass-known designs) combined with practicality in suit-like products, such as those from the brand Alainpaul. Earthy tones like brown and gray continue to dominate, along with splashes of pink and yellow adding interest to the entire collection.

Investment pieces: Alainpaul’s Look 14, with its multi-way wearability for tops and bottoms, offers infinite styling possibilities while remaining practical for everyday wear. Each wearing method is sophisticated and unique, yet not overly complicated, making it timeless and forever stylish.

Budgets up or down: The Chinese market has not yet rebounded, so we are maintaining the same conservative approach as last season, waiting for a change in circumstances.

New talent: Riz Poli, with their imitation denim-patterned leather jackets, has garnered attention with their unique appearance resembling light denim but made from leather, with a texture similar to wax (although not). Comfortable and soft to wear, they are expected to attract a lot of attention upon their initial release.

Impressions of the week: Half sunny, half rainy, like the two sides of Paris and the world; weather changes constantly, and variations occur frequently, epitomizing the common occurrences of the world in Paris.

Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development at ENG

Favorite collections: Courrèges, Ann Demeulemeester, Saint Laurent and Didu.

Top trends: Formal and nerdy aesthetic, suiting fabrics, elegance with a twist, high-waist pants.

Investment pieces: Suits and knitwear.

New talents: Atlein and Duran Lantink, both of whose collections I really liked this season; will definitely keep a close eye on them.

Impressions of the week: Newness in elegance, a refreshing twist.

– With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang

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